Bo-Kaap Kerrie

Cape Malay Curry

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This is one of the truly famous South African curries (the others being the Durban Curry and the Bunny Chow. This particular curry originated in the Bo-Kaap, the Cape Malay community in Cape Town. Traditionally it’s made with either mutton or chicken, but it can also be made with lamb or venison (I quite like the venison version, but here I am using mutton). Like many rich gravy-based stews this particular curry is even better the following day. Cape Malay curries are famous for their fruity and full-bodied flavours; particularly the use of apricots. Some versions use the local green bananas (unripe bananas about half the length of the standard Cavendish banana), though I have omitted them here. An authentic Bo-Kaap curry powder is always better, so I also include a recipe for this.

Prep time 30 minutes/Cook time 100 minutes/Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

For the Curry Powder:

1 tbsp cloves

8 tbsp coriander seeds

1 tbsp fennel seeds

1 tbsp black mustard seeds

3 tbsp fenugreek seeds

2 tbsp black peppercorns

3 small dried hot red chilies, stems removed (de-seed for a milder spice blend)

3 tbsp cumin seeds

4 tbsp ground cardamom

4 tbsp ground turmeric

1 tbsp ground ginger

2 curry leaves, chopped into small pieces

For the Curry:

12 kg (3 1/3 lbs) boneless mutton, lamb or venison shoulder cut into bite-sized pieces

Oil, for frying (about 6 tbsp)

4 onions, peeled and chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

3cm (1 in) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and crushed

1 tbsp Cape Malay curry powder (see recipe)

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

12 tsp turmeric powder

14 tsp sea salt

Freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

1 cinnamon stick

3 cloves

2 bay leaves

2 carrots, peeled and diced (or use half a dozen baby carrots)

250 g dried apricots, soaked in warm water and drained

2 tbsp tomato puree

3 tbsp wine vinegar

250 ml meat stock

3 tablespoons apricot jam

3 tablespoons natural yoghurt

Method:

Begin with the curry powder. Put a small pan over medium heat and use to individually dry toast the whole spices for about 90 seconds each, until aromatic. As each spice finishes toasting, turn out onto a plate to cool as you toast the next one (do not allow them to burn or they will become bitter). Once all the whole spices are toasted, combine with the powdered spices in a spice blender (or food processor) and process to a fine powder. Store in an air-tight jar until needed.

Heat the oil in a large pot or saucepan (a cast iron casserole is good).

Over high heat, fry the onions and garlic, stirring continuously. Add the ginger, curry powder and all the spices and continue stirring for a minute. Season to taste with black pepper, then add the salt.

Reduce heat slightly, add the meat and fry until evenly browned on all sides. (This may be easier to do if you remove the onions, garlic and ginger mixture and set them aside, then return them to the pot after the meat is browned.)

Add the vinegar and stock, plus all the remaining ingredients (except the apricot jam and yoghurt). Reduce the heat, cover the pot and simmer over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until everything is tender, approximately 90 minutes for lamb and 2 hours for mutton or venison.

Stir in the apricot jam and the yoghurt a few minutes before serving.

Serve this curry with yellow rice and a variety of chutneys, sambals and pickles.

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